Tip top tapas
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EL MOLINO
379 Holloway Road, N7
020 7700 4312
THERE'S something about tapas that always seems to hit the right note.
Maybe it's the fact you get to enjoy so many exotic flavours in one sitting. Perhaps it's because you can graze for hours while merrily sipping your way through another bottle of fine Spanish red.
Maybe it's the communal appeal, which lends itself to an evening of fun and frivolity, whether with family or that special someone.
Or perhaps it's just funny to see those who prefer to go for a curry just so they can have a chicken korma all to themselves squirm as someone reaches across and polishes off the last piece of chorizo.
Whatever it is, tapas bars are hard to beat, and in the heart of Holloway, just up from the Odeon cinema, there is a little gem that has been wowing its loyal customers for more than 20 years.
After a couple of drinks in the excellent Swimmer pub, in Eburne Road, we hit El Molino with a spring in our step, but as ever, the fun was only just beginning...
Jose De Freitas and his wife Hermelinda have run the restaurant for the past three years, but recently bought it outright, and a party atmosphere was in the air.
Three tables were celebrating birthdays - testament to El Molino's enduring appeal - and while the regular renditions of happy birthday may be a little testing for the mean spirited and toffee nosed snobs among us, its great fun.
No restaurant ever built its reputation on atmosphere alone though, and it's the simplicity and authenticity of the food at El Molino that keeps people coming back.
The huge portions of patatas bravas are perfectly flavoured with that spicy kick sometimes lacking in anglicised chain restaurants.
The calamari is as fresh, light and flavoursome as you could possibly imagine, while the pulpo a la gallega (octopus in olive oil and paprika) is a joy.
But the amazing 45-minute paella is still the most popular dish of all.
Don't forget the specials board either, which always contains four or five unusual Spanish delights which make every visit different.
The breaded asparagus was my choice this time around, and didn't disappoint.
Of all the restaurants I've reviewed this is the one I've visited most under my own steam. It's relaxed, vibrant, unstuffy and the food is fantastic.
And with Valentine's Day on the horizon, it's the perfect place to sweep your lover off her feet without breaking the bank. - ROB BLEANEY
Tapas: £1.80 to £7.25.
Mains: £4 to £16.95.
Wines: From £10.95.
Disabled access: Yes.
Children welcome: Yes.
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