Vegetarian heaven
 | | Vanilla Black |
VANILLA BLACK
17 Took's Court, EC4
020 7242 2622
BEING a vegetarian is a somewhat fraught affair. Eating out invariably means a sea of cream and cheese or opting for yet another mushroom risotto.
That's where Vanilla Black steps in. In this classy dining room off High Holborn, there is no trace of mushroom risotto and definitely no heavy cream-soaked affairs.
Instead there's a menu full of vegetable-based delights served in surroundings that bear no resemblance to the café-style vegetarian restaurants of yesteryear.
Vanilla Black - which moved to London from York almost two years ago - is the brainchild of 41-year-old chef Andrew Dargue and his partner Donna Conroy, 38.
"I have been a vegetarian for 10 years," said Andrew. "But I wouldn't take my friends to a vegetarian restaurant because they are all a bit café style. I wanted people to come to my restaurant, enjoy the food but not think, 'This is a vegetarian restaurant'."
Andrew and Donna's message has struck a chord because Vanilla Black's elegant tables were full when we visited on a Saturday night.
But the real test was whether the food would delight both me, a fussy vegetarian, and my meat-loving husband.
The starter of baked beetroot terrine was a joy, showing that there is so much more to the under-rated beetroot than being soaked in vinegar and encased in plastic.
But even better was the foamed parsnip, a spicy velvety puree that tasted divine.
Main courses were equally good. My steak-loving husband praised his dish of goats cheese-topped cauliflower cake and my baked mushroom duxelle was far tastier than many a meat dish (although its burgundy sauce was too sweet).
It was only the dessert sauce that slightly missed the mark. My orange and treacle pudding was one of the best sweets I've tasted, but my husband's peanut butter and chocolate parfait was a little too reminiscent of a Snickers ice-cream.
But don't let that put you off - because for any true vegetable lover, Vanilla Black is a welcome oasis in the desert. - MEYREM HUSSEIN
Two courses: £24.
Three courses: £30.
House wine: From £15.50.
Disabled access: Wheelchair accessible toilet but one step into
the restaurant.
Children welcome: Yes, high chairs not provided.
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